Learn more about these highly-recognizable garments, including their ancient origins and modern pop-culture appearances.
What comes to mind when you think of Scotland? Beyond its rolling hills and idyllic seaside towns, part of Scotland’s rich history is its impact on fashion. Specifically, Scottish tartan—also mistakenly known as “plaid”—is, well, everywhere.
Of course, we often think of kilts bearing these traditional patterns, but tartan’s impact goes much further. Men’s ties, children’s school uniforms, mass-produced products (such as Scotch tape, for example)—the influence of Scottish tartan is far and wide.
And yet, despite its mass appeal and induction into modern life, very few know the rich history behind the pattern and its many variations.
Scottish tartan works for both formal and informal occasions. Images via Olesia Reshetnikova, solarus, veronica-valentin, PhotoSunnyDays, eAlisa, and JASPERIMAGE.
Let’s look back on where tartan originated, what it’s meant throughout history, and where we see it in fashion today.
Scottish Tartan’s Origins
Any pattern of interlocking stripes constitutes a tartan. While we often call this pattern “plaid,” this nickname is technically incorrect.
The word “plaid” came from a Gaelic word used to describe a tartan blanket from the Scottish Highlands. Over the centuries, however, we’ve adopted “plaid” into our vernacular, and it’s interchangeable with “tartan.”
Linguistics aside, plaid patterns have existed throughout the world since approximately 3,000 BCE. While people virtually everywhere have created woven cloth with patterned designs, only in Scotland did tartan take on a deeply personal and historical significance.
Tartan and Scots go way back. Images via Mansell Collection/The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock, Design Pics Inc/Shutterstock, Historia/Shutterstock, and Historia/Shutterstock.
The plaid fabric was originally woven in the Scottish Highlands. Weavers would color their patterns using dyes derived from their local plants and berries.
As people within small geographical regions continued to wear similarly-colored checked garments, their patterns became known as clan tartan, a synonymous symbol of kinship.
Over the centuries, and throughout the many struggles for independence within them, Scotland saw their tartans both banned and adopted into wider culture. Tartan was once outlawed in an attempt to quash Scottish pride—and any chances of rebellion against the English.
When King George IV visited Edinburgh in 1822, though, he established a “tartan festival,” for which he requested attendees don the tartan of their own family clan.
It’s speculated that several colorful clan tartans were invented specifically for the occasion.
The Meanings Behind Tartan’s Colors
The kilt is Scotland’s most well-known garment, but there are several other ways to wear tartan. There are also several meanings behind the colors and patterns.
Beyond representing different families, regions, and clans, specific patterns can represent:
- Mourning: Black and white tartans are worn for funerals.
- Hunting: Neutral colors help to camouflage hunters in the wilderness.
- Femininity: Lighter-colored patterns were originally intended for women.
- Hierarchy: Clan leaders would sport their own personal tartan, which was different from that of their clan’s.
Within its countless varieties, each Scottish tartan has its own meaning. Images via Focus no.5, Stephen Bridger, ph7design, Nancy Haggarty, glebchik, and Stephen Bridger.
A Preppy Takeover of Tartan
Plaid is a paradox. It was ubiquitous with prim, proper, and preppy culture. Then it became appropriated by the punk movement in the 1970s. Since then, tartan has swung back and forth between those worlds and others—and it’s safe to say that it embodies all at once.
When Queen Victoria reigned she and fell in love with Scottish culture, so tartan became associated with the upper crust of society. The Royal Family decorated their home in tartan and developed their own pattern, known as The Royal Stewart.
This is arguably the most recognizable plaid to date. Tartan’s association with high society has been a cultural touchstone for several decades now, as it can be seen everywhere from prep school uniforms to well-to-do characters of fictional stories like Clueless.
Prim, proper, and downright preppy, Scottish tartan is adored by society’s upper echelons. Images via Paramount/Kobal/Shutterstock, Mike Forster/Daily Mail/Shutterstock, Chris Jackson/WPA Pool/Shutterstock, Paramount/Kobal/Shutterstock, Nata Sha, Design Pics Inc/Shutterstock, and mamahoohooba.
Tartan in Punk and Pop Culture
Seeing how high society embraced tartan, is it any wonder that counterculture took it over? As the 1960s came to a close and hippie culture was on its way out, punk came into style.
Designer Vivienne Westwood featured torn-up Royal Stewart tartan in her designs, as a symbolic middle finger to British Society. The biggest bands of early punk—The Clash and the Sex Pistols—embraced her tattered take on tartan.
The British-led punk revolution turned preppy plaid on its head. Images via Richard Young/Shutterstock, Paul Hartnett/Pymca/Shutterstock, Peter Anderson/Pymca/Shutterstock, Graham Smith/Pymca/Shutterstock, Eugene Adebari/Shutterstock, Paul Hartnett/Pymca/Shutterstock, and Ted Polhemus/Pymca/Shutterstock.
Youthful counterculture, like 1990’s grunge, hip-hop, and rap, continued embracing rebellious plaid in their outfits, whether it was torn, tied, spiked, or shredded.
Tartan made its way from ancient Scotland to 1990’s Southern California. Images via Steve Fenton/Shutterstock, Melluk/Mediapunch/Shutterstock, DMI/The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock, Kevin Estrada/Shutterstock, and Nicola Goode/New Line/Kobal/Shutterstock.
Tartan in High Fashion
As Scottish tartan has bounced between high and low culture, it’s also had its moment in haute couture. At 2013’s Met Gala, themed PUNK: Chaos to Couture, Madonna graced the red carpet in a plaid Givenchy power suit.
Sarah Jessica Parker honored designer Alexander McQueen’s authentic clan tartan at the 2006 Met Gala as well. Even in 2022, tartan is making a splash in high fashion.
Thom Browne’s Fall collection includes tons of tartan and is being worn by celebrity clientele, like Euphoria‘s Angus Cloud.
After being torn to pieces by punks, Scottish tartan became the ultimate status symbol—haute couture. Images via David Fisher/Shutterstock, Henry Lamb/BEI/Shutterstock, Erik Pendzich/Shutterstock, Erik Pendzich/Shutterstock, and Beretta/Sims/Shutterstock.
Despite its humble beginnings, and initial practicality, Scottish tartan has taken on new meanings as centuries have gone by.
It’s safe to say that, while trends come and go, tartan looks like it’ll be eternally stylish.
Cover image via Eugene Adebari/Shutterstock, Design Pics Inc/Shutterstock, lllKWPHOTOlll, The Picture Studio, and Vectorchoice.
Source link