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A History of Scottish Tartan

Posted on February 18, 2022 by photography_70danh


Learn more about these highly-recognizable garments, including their ancient origins and modern pop-culture appearances.

What comes to mind when you think of Scotland? Beyond its rolling hills and idyllic seaside towns, part of Scotland’s rich history is its impact on fashion. Specifically, Scottish tartan—also mistakenly known as “plaid”—is, well, everywhere. 

Of course, we often think of kilts bearing these traditional patterns, but tartan’s impact goes much further. Men’s ties, children’s school uniforms, mass-produced products (such as Scotch tape, for example)—the influence of Scottish tartan is far and wide.

And yet, despite its mass appeal and induction into modern life, very few know the rich history behind the pattern and its many variations. 

Cranberry toddy on plaid blanket
Yellow and green plaid swatch
Red plaid suit and green tie
Scottish bride and groom in traditional clothing
Black Scottish terrier in red plaid scarf
Men playing bag pipes in traditional Scottish attire

Scottish tartan works for both formal and informal occasions. Images via Olesia Reshetnikova, solarus, veronica-valentin, PhotoSunnyDays, eAlisa, and JASPERIMAGE.

Let’s look back on where tartan originated, what it’s meant throughout history, and where we see it in fashion today. 


Scottish Tartan’s Origins

Any pattern of interlocking stripes constitutes a tartan. While we often call this pattern “plaid,” this nickname is technically incorrect.

The word “plaid” came from a Gaelic word used to describe a tartan blanket from the Scottish Highlands. Over the centuries, however, we’ve adopted “plaid” into our vernacular, and it’s interchangeable with “tartan.” 

Linguistics aside, plaid patterns have existed throughout the world since approximately 3,000 BCE. While people virtually everywhere have created woven cloth with patterned designs, only in Scotland did tartan take on a deeply personal and historical significance. 

Painting of the last Jacobite rebellion
Painting of a Scottish highland chieftain
Portrait painting of Scottish patriot Sir William Wallace
Painting of the Jacobite rebellion victory

Tartan and Scots go way back. Images via Mansell Collection/The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock, Design Pics Inc/Shutterstock, Historia/Shutterstock, and Historia/Shutterstock.

The plaid fabric was originally woven in the Scottish Highlands. Weavers would color their patterns using dyes derived from their local plants and berries.

As people within small geographical regions continued to wear similarly-colored checked garments, their patterns became known as clan tartan, a synonymous symbol of kinship. 

A painting titled "Bring Home the Deer" by Charles Jones
Scottish man walking toward a castle in a kilt
Painting of King Edward I attacking William Wallace and his troops
Man walking through the mountains in a Scottish kilt
Images via Universal History Archive/Shutterstock, Natalia Yatskevich, Kharbine-Tapabor/Shutterstock, and Cliff Hands.

Over the centuries, and throughout the many struggles for independence within them, Scotland saw their tartans both banned and adopted into wider culture. Tartan was once outlawed in an attempt to quash Scottish pride—and any chances of rebellion against the English.

When King George IV visited Edinburgh in 1822, though, he established a “tartan festival,” for which he requested attendees don the tartan of their own family clan.

It’s speculated that several colorful clan tartans were invented specifically for the occasion. 

A young boy dressed in Scottish tartan, circa 1900s
Queen Elizabeth wearing a gown with a tartan sash dances with the Duke of Edinburgh
King George IV statue in Scotland
Princess Diana sits in a stadium wearing a tartan print dress
Even English royals Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Diana have donned Scottish tartan. Images via Hartnett Collection/Pymca/Shutterstock, Historia/Shutterstock, ANL/Shutterstock, and John Shelley/Shutterstock.

The Meanings Behind Tartan’s Colors

The kilt is Scotland’s most well-known garment, but there are several other ways to wear tartan. There are also several meanings behind the colors and patterns. 

Beyond representing different families, regions, and clans, specific patterns can represent: 

  • Mourning: Black and white tartans are worn for funerals.
  • Hunting: Neutral colors help to camouflage hunters in the wilderness. 
  • Femininity: Lighter-colored patterns were originally intended for women.
  • Hierarchy: Clan leaders would sport their own personal tartan, which was different from that of their clan’s.
Geologist examines a large piece of gray rock through a large magnifying glass on a bone handle
Portrait of a young blonde woman out for a stroll wearing a red tartan scarf

Within its countless varieties, each Scottish tartan has its own meaning. Images via Focus no.5, Stephen Bridger, ph7design, Nancy Haggarty, glebchik, and Stephen Bridger.


A Preppy Takeover of Tartan

Plaid is a paradox. It was ubiquitous with prim, proper, and preppy culture. Then it became appropriated by the punk movement in the 1970s. Since then, tartan has swung back and forth between those worlds and others—and it’s safe to say that it embodies all at once. 

When Queen Victoria reigned she and fell in love with Scottish culture, so tartan became associated with the upper crust of society. The Royal Family decorated their home in tartan and developed their own pattern, known as The Royal Stewart.

This is arguably the most recognizable plaid to date. Tartan’s association with high society has been a cultural touchstone for several decades now, as it can be seen everywhere from prep school uniforms to well-to-do characters of fictional stories like Clueless.

Prim, proper, and downright preppy, Scottish tartan is adored by society’s upper echelons. Images via Paramount/Kobal/Shutterstock, Mike Forster/Daily Mail/Shutterstock, Chris Jackson/WPA Pool/Shutterstock, Paramount/Kobal/Shutterstock, Nata Sha, Design Pics Inc/Shutterstock, and mamahoohooba.


Tartan in Punk and Pop Culture

Seeing how high society embraced tartan, is it any wonder that counterculture took it over? As the 1960s came to a close and hippie culture was on its way out, punk came into style.

Designer Vivienne Westwood featured torn-up Royal Stewart tartan in her designs, as a symbolic middle finger to British Society. The biggest bands of early punk—The Clash and the Sex Pistols—embraced her tattered take on tartan. 

English singer John Lydon wearing tartan outfit
Two punks leaning on a fence one wearing tartan pants
Two young Adam & The Ants fans at a gig wearing matching tartan outits
X-Ray Spex singer on stage wearing tartan
Two teenagers posing in tartan outfits at the Blitz Nightclub
Two punks in leather jackets holding beers - one wearing a blue tartan scarf
Three punks with mohawks wearing tartan clothing

The British-led punk revolution turned preppy plaid on its head. Images via Richard Young/Shutterstock, Paul Hartnett/Pymca/Shutterstock, Peter Anderson/Pymca/Shutterstock, Graham Smith/Pymca/Shutterstock, Eugene Adebari/Shutterstock, Paul Hartnett/Pymca/Shutterstock, and Ted Polhemus/Pymca/Shutterstock.

Youthful counterculture, like 1990’s grunge, hip-hop, and rap, continued embracing rebellious plaid in their outfits, whether it was torn, tied, spiked, or shredded. 

Rapper Snoop Dog in flannel shirt
Singer for Pearl Jam Eddie Vedder in flannel shirt on stage
Members of the band TLC at an event - one wearing flannel shirt
Singer Kurt Cobain on stage wearing flannel
Actors Ice Cube and Chris Tucker in the movie Friday - Ice Cube wearing flannel shirt

Tartan made its way from ancient Scotland to 1990’s Southern California. Images via Steve Fenton/Shutterstock, Melluk/Mediapunch/Shutterstock, DMI/The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock, Kevin Estrada/Shutterstock, and Nicola Goode/New Line/Kobal/Shutterstock.


Tartan in High Fashion

As Scottish tartan has bounced between high and low culture, it’s also had its moment in haute couture. At 2013’s Met Gala, themed PUNK: Chaos to Couture, Madonna graced the red carpet in a plaid Givenchy power suit.

Sarah Jessica Parker honored designer Alexander McQueen’s authentic clan tartan at the 2006 Met Gala as well. Even in 2022, tartan is making a splash in high fashion.

Thom Browne’s Fall collection includes tons of tartan and is being worn by celebrity clientele, like Euphoria‘s Angus Cloud.

Singer/Actor Madonna in sexy tartan onesie
Actor Sarah Jessica Parker in evening gown with tartan sash
English fashion designer Alexander McQueen wearing green jacket, kilt, and tartan sash
Christina Ricci in tartan dress
Actor Harry Styles in tartan suit

After being torn to pieces by punks, Scottish tartan became the ultimate status symbol—haute couture. Images via David Fisher/Shutterstock, Henry Lamb/BEI/Shutterstock, Erik Pendzich/Shutterstock, Erik Pendzich/Shutterstock, and Beretta/Sims/Shutterstock.

Despite its humble beginnings, and initial practicality, Scottish tartan has taken on new meanings as centuries have gone by.

It’s safe to say that, while trends come and go, tartan looks like it’ll be eternally stylish.


Cover image via Eugene Adebari/Shutterstock, Design Pics Inc/Shutterstock, lllKWPHOTOlll, The Picture Studio, and Vectorchoice.



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