Discover gorgeous Jičín, an eastern Bohemian town within easy reach of the enchanting ‘rock cities’ and forests of the Bohemian Paradise region.
Jičín is one of the hidden gems of the Czech Republic, especially to anyone from outside the country. It’s a beautiful Renaissance and Baroque town that’s on the doorstep of the Český ráj, or Bohemian Paradise, one of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe.
Our Jičín guide shows you around this small but fascinating town, and also introduces you to the wonders of the Český ráj, with its diverse mix of natural rock towers, forests, meadows and astounding castles.
We hope you enjoy discovering it as much as we did.
Why Visit Jičín
Jičín is one of the most beautiful towns in Bohemia, and one of the three main gateways to the Český ráj – Bohemian Paradise – one of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe.
The Český ráj region is magical, with several dramatic ‘rock cities’, formations of sandstone rock towers, with fantastic hikes among them.
One of these, Prachov Rocks (Prachovske skaly), is only 5 km (3 miles) from the centre of Jičín.
Český ráj is also home to some of the most famous and picturesque castles in the Czech Republic.
If you’re driving, you can reach anywhere within the Český ráj within an hour.
Jičín History
The region around Jičín – pronounced ‘ye-CHEEN’) – has been inhabited for around 8,000 years, with the town founded in the 13th century.
Many buildings in Jičín were originally built from wood, and were rebuilt in stone in the 16th century.
The town was governed by local noblemen until 1621, when the wealthy Albrecht von Wallenstein assumed control during the Thirty Years War.
He was Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial Army, and made Jičín the capital of his Duchy of Frydlant (Friedland).
The name Wallenstein may also be familiar to some readers as the Wallenstein Gardens in Prague are also named after him, as is the Wallenstein Palace which is now home to the Czech Senate.
After Wallenstein was assassinated in Cheb in 1634, Jičín gradually faded from prominence, although many of its Baroque buildings were completed in the early 18th century.
Jičín and the surrounding forests are the setting for the tales of Rumcajs, a Robin Hood-like character forced to live in a cave in the forest.
Things To Do In Jičín
Valdštejnovo náměstí
Valdštejnovo náměstí – Wallenstein Square – is the historic heart of Jičín, and several of its sights are on the square or very close by.
The first thing you’ll notice is the grand size of the square for a relatively small town. It’s a gorgeous square, with brightly painted houses and arcades with cafes, bars and plenty of small independent shops.
It’s where you’ll also find several Jičín landmarks, including the Wallenstein Palace and Valdice Gate tower (see below), and the smaller Coronation Fountain. It also plays host to farmers’ markets on Wednesdays and Fridays, and a larger, more general market selling clothes on Saturdays.
Valdice Gate
This 52-metre tower – Valdická brána in Czech – was built between 1568 and 1578 by the then rulers of the town, and it’s the only one of three Jičín town gates to survive.
If you make the 156-step climb, you’re rewarded with a superb view from the wooden gallery over Valdštejnovo náměstí and the surrounding countryside. The best time to visit in the morning, when the sun is to your left rather than shining directly at you.
Regional Museum and Wallenstein Castle
Much of the Wallenstein Palace, on the south side of the main square, is occupied by the Regional Museum and Gallery. It’s an impressive late Renaissance building with some fine arcades from the period, and some picturesque corners like the archway pictured below.
The Museum appeals to both adults and kids. Discoveries like the passageway to the church next door piqued my curiosity, as did the art gallery with its collection of Baroque-era paintings.
My son and I both enjoyed the interactive aspect of some of the exhibits, particularly the puppet theatre. He also enjoyed the exhibition on the history of Jičín and the surrounding area, with which he became very well acquainted over the following few days.
Coffee And Cake At Kavarna Republika
We celebrated my birthday in Jičín, and my main criterion for a venue was the best selection of cakes in town.
We found them in Kavarna Republika, a delightful café on the opposite end of Valdštejnovo náměstí from the Valdice Gate. As it was my birthday I permitted myself a second indulgence, and would recommend anyone not too figure-conscious doing the same.
St James the Great Church
Albrecht von Wallenstein had big plans for Jičín, and some of these were never to come to fruition. He intended St James the Great Church to be a large cathedral, with four towers and a central dome. However, this scheme ended with his assassination in 1634.
St James the Great church is next door to the Wallenstein Palace, and there is a passageway linking the two buildings. After Albrecht was killed, enough funds were found to complete a grand Baroque church, complete with a very fine trompe l’oeil painting of a dome (pictured). It was so convincing I had to check outside that I hadn’t missed a dome – which indeed I hadn’t.
St Ignatius of Loyola Church
This church, just off the main square, is the oldest building in Jičín, dating from around the early 14th century. Sadly it was closed when we visited, as it’s undergoing restoration work. The nave and chancel are built in Gothic style, whereas the tower seems to be from the later Baroque (17th or 18th century) era.
Rumcajs Exhibition
A small museum just below the Valdice Gate is dedicated to the Czech fairytale character Rumcajs, who was brought to life by Jičín writer Václav Čtvrtek.
Rumcajs (pronounced ‘Rum-ts-ice’) is a cobbler from Jičín who falls out of favour with the town mayor, and is forced to live in a cave in the nearby forest and become a bandit -albeit a good one – to get by.
The Rumcajsova Sevcovna is a small exhibition full of memorabilia, and a small shoemaker’s workshop, herb garden and kids’ playroom. You may be able to track down some Rumcajs translations into English, but you’ll have more luck if you speak German or one of the Central and Eastern European Slavic languages, where he’s very popular with children.
Jičín Synagogue
The Bohemian Paradise area was home to several Jewish communities, and this 18th century Baroque synagogue is a poignant reminder of what was lost during the Holocaust.
Fortunately, the building survived, albeit in a near-derelict state, and its restoration was completed in 2008. It now houses an exhibition on the history of the Jewish community in Jičín.
Wallenstein Loggia
We saw the Wallenstein Loggia, a splendid small palace on the outskirts of Jičín, surrounded by the Libosad gardens. It was begun by Albrecht von Wallenstein but left incomplete after his assassination.
It’s a little reminiscent of Queen Anne’s Summer Palace, which predates it by a few decades, in Royal Garden in Prague Castle. The Loggia (Valdštejnská lodžie) is at the end of an avenue of linden trees that begins in the town centre.
The Loggia and Park are a wonderful place to wander for an hour, and there is a café where you can refresh yourself before the stroll back.
Prachov Rocks
Prachovske skaly, 5 km (3 miles) west of Jičín, is one of the three principal ‘rock cities’ of the Cesky raj UNESCO Geopark. It’s easily accessible via the 2816 road or the bus which runs along this route and back into Jičín until early evening.
Make sure you’re on the right track by following the uphill path parallel to the road until you reach the kiosk where you pay your 60 Kc entrance fee.
From here, follow the red trail (which is regularly marked with paint slashes on rocks), which leads you to the best viewpoints and also down into the enchanted fairytale world of the rock labyrinth, along steep steps between soaring, awe-inspiring spires of rock.
Trosky Castle
Hrad Trosky is one of the most famous landmarks in the Czech Republic, and one you’re bound to see if you travel anywhere between Jičín and Turnov.
These two medieval castle towers, built on two outcrops of volcanic rock, with a wall walk linking the two. It’s an extraordinary sight, and it dominates the relatively low-lying surrounding landscape. It’s no wonder the area has inspired fairytales.
You can climb both towers – nicknamed Baba and Panna – from Tuesdays to Sundays April to September, then on weekends in October. It is then closed between November and March, but that won’t stop you enjoying incredible views of it.
Where Is Jičín
Jičín is around 100 km (62 km) north-east of Prague, and 35 km (21 miles) from the major town of Mlada Boleslav.
It is part of the province of Hradec Králové, a splendid city 46 km to the south-east.
Getting To Jičín From Prague
The easiest way to get from Prague to Jičín is via the regular bus from Černý Most. This bus station is adjacent to the Prague Metro station of the same name, which is the eastern terminus of the yellow Metro line B. Check the idos.cz website for current bus times.
The Prague- Jičín bus takes around 90 minutes, including a stop at Mlada Boleslav en route.
You can also travel to Jičín from Prague by train. One option is catching the train from Prague main train station (Praha hl n on timetables) as far as Nymburk, then changing to a bus to Jičín.
Alternatively, the direct ‘Bohemian Paradise’ train runs from Masarykovo nádraží , another central Prague railway station a few minutes’ walk from the main one. It takes 1 hour 45 minutes to get to Jičín, and continues to one of the other main Cesky raj towns, Turnov, 30 minutes up the track.
For up-to-date timetable and fare information, take a look at the Czech Railways website.
Jičín Hotels
We stayed at Penzion U Synagogy, a beautifully converted Jewish school a two-minute walk from the main square. It’s also a few metres down the street from Jičín Synagogue, as its name suggests.
Our family room was more of a suite, with two spacious rooms for a very reasonable 50 GBP a night. The school is also a wonderful setting for a pension, with great views across a galleried courtyard towards the town square.
There are several other great Jičín hotel options, including the Grand Hotel Praha, a tastefully restored Art Nouveau building in a quiet area a few minutes’ walk from the main town square.
If you’re looking for somewhere out in the countryside, Hotel Pod Šikmou Věží may just be ideal. We came across it via a Prachov Rocks trail, and it’s in the southern part of the rock city, reachable by car from the village of Holin. It’s close to one of the less frequented parts of Prachov Rocks, but it still within reach of the most popular viewpoints.
Best Time To Visit Jičín Cesky Raj
The tourist season in many parts of the Czech Republic runs from April to the end of October, and this is reflected in many places – for example, most Czech castles – closing for the winter months.
We visited Jičín in mid-autumn, and this is a wonderful time to explore the town and Bohemian Paradise region. However even then some bus services – for example to Kost Castle – had stopped for the season. I would venture that Jičín probably gets very quiet during the winter.
If you’re relying on buses and trains to explore the Bohemian Paradise, you’ll be fine between April or May and the end of September. If you’re driving, you can get anywhere in the area at any time of year.
Jičín Czech Republic – Final Words
We opted to stay in Jičín as it’s one of the easiest places to see the Cesky raj from Prague, especially with its proximity to the Prachov rock city.
It has more to see than the other two gateways to the Cesky raj, Minchovo Hradiste and Turnov, and from Jičín you’re well placed to explore the eastern side of the area, including its amazing castles.
We greatly enjoyed Jičín – and ended up spending more time there than we had planned. If you want a taste of the Czech Republic largely untouched by tourism, this is a great place to start your journey.
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